CLIMBMT – SAFETY COMMUNIQUE
To: The Climbing Community
Subject: Urgent Safety Advisory – Climbing Anchor Failure and Inspection of Coastal Routes
Dear Climbers,
Following a fatal climbing accident last weekend ClimbMT has now inspected the route concerned, Plunder, and confirm that a bolt failure at the first belay most probably contributed to the tragic accident. The route had been fully rebolted with 316 stainless steel in 2014 so understanding this failure is of importance not only to us but to the whole international community, particularly those with coastal climbing activities. In this regard ClimbMT has already engaged with the UIAA to investigate the failure in depth. ClimbMT therefore wishes to alert the climbing community to a serious safety concern regarding fixed climbing hardware, particularly on coastal routes.
The failed bolt was identified as a large-eye stainless-steel belay bolt supplied as 316 stainless steel. The precise cause of the failure has not yet been established, and the incident remains subject to local investigation. As mentioned, further independent examination of the failed hardware is being sought with the help of the UIAA.
Corrosion and stress-corrosion cracking (SCC) are recognised hazards in marine climbing environments and can severely weaken stainless-steel anchors, sometimes without obvious external signs.
Immediate actions by ClimbMT
ClimbMT will begin identifying and prioritising climbing sectors equipped with potentially affected bolts, using available bolting records, hardware identification and information from route equippers.
Our initial focus will be on sea-cliff routes and other highly exposed coastal sectors, particularly those subject to salt spray, persistent humidity and severe marine conditions. We will then assess other potentially affected areas and determine appropriate inspection, testing by competent personnel, and replacement measures where necessary.
ClimbMT will coordinate with local route equippers and the climbing community to gather information on bolt types, manufacturers, installation dates and any known failures or deterioration.
Interim safety advice to climbers
Pending further investigation and inspection, all climbers are urged to exercise heightened caution when using fixed hardware, especially on sea-cliff routes.
Be particularly cautious of 316/A4 stainless-steel bolts on sea cliffs. This material designation alone does not establish that a bolt is suitable for the local environment or that it remains structurally sound. ClimbMT’s bolting guidance now specifies titanium or high-corrosion-resistance (HCR) hardware for sea cliffs and has only used titanium for the past 10 years.
Inspect visible bolts, hangers and belay anchors before use. Look for rust, pitting, cracking, discolouration, loose components, damaged hangers and other signs of deterioration. However, the absence of visible corrosion does not guarantee that a bolt is safe.
Do not load hardware that appears damaged, corroded or otherwise suspect. Avoid the affected anchor or route, retreat by a safe alternative where possible, and report the concern to ClimbMT or the relevant route equipper.
Do not assume that an anchor is safe because it has multiple bolts. Nor should the apparent condition of one bolt be taken as evidence that the others are sound.
Report suspected defects or failures promptly. Where possible, provide the route name, sector, bolt location, photographs and any known information about the hardware. Do not attempt to remove or dismantle potentially relevant hardware associated with a reported failure without coordinating with the responsible parties.
Climbers should not attempt to assess bolt integrity by bouncing on, shock-loading or otherwise testing suspect hardware. Visual inspection alone cannot reliably establish the structural integrity of a bolt.
Never rely on a single bolt as your only protection. Belay anchors should be properly backed up, utilizing at least two points of protection for the climbing party.
Our commitment
The safety of the Maltese climbing community and climbers visiting our islands is our priority. ClimbMT will work with route equippers and other relevant parties to establish the extent of the potential problem, identify priority routes and coordinate appropriate remedial action.
We ask all climbers to take this advisory seriously, remain vigilant and share relevant information with the ClimbMT Committee. Further guidance, including any route-specific warnings or temporary restrictions, will be communicated as reliable information becomes available.
Please circulate this communique among your climbing contacts.
https://theuiaa.org/documents/safety/Safecom-Report_-Anchors-in-Marine-Areeas.pdf?